The text discusses the study of drapery in art in addition to the nude. It describes the difficulty in choosing and arranging fabric folds and suggests studying natural fabrics like linen, serge, and wool. Raphael is noted for his use of serge for realistic effect, and practice involves sketching and memorizing fold arrangements.
Drawing
So, in addition to studying the nude, one must also study drapery, and although it is neither as long nor as difficult, since it only involves covering figures with various fabrics of which the parts are already known, it is nonetheless quite challenging for the fine choice of folds and due to the need to arrange them in such a way that one can easily perceive the nude underneath through the forms they present. These fabrics have folds that are larger or finer depending on whether they are thicker or thinner; hence, one must learn to recognize the different kinds in order to use them appropriately. The way to learn to arrange draperies well is to study them from natural fabrics. There are three main types: linen cloths, serges, and very fine wool fabrics, in white or other vibrant colors. It is said that Raphael studied his draperies using serge, which, being not as light as canvas or linen, nor as coarse as wool cloth, creates a pleasant effect in painting. It is arranged in various ways on a model, a mannequin, or some other subject, and one observes the folds, adjustments, and edges of the fabric. Various sketches or ideas are then made until one has sufficiently imprinted in their memory the natural economy, order, and sequence of folds, to create them later from memory or ingenuity. To succeed well in draperies, one must observe.
Translation Notes:
- "serge": a type of twill fabric that has a distinct diagonal pattern.
- "grofriere": an old term possibly indicating coarseness or roughness in the fabric texture.
- "étoffes": refers to fabrics or textiles.
- "le nu": refers to the nude human form used for art studies.